Emma Steen

Emma Steen

Staff Writer, Time Out Tokyo

Articles (186)

12 best art exhibitions in Tokyo right now

12 best art exhibitions in Tokyo right now

With an abundance of art shows happening this season, it'll be hard to catch all of the latest installations before they disappear. Nonetheless, we've got a list of the top art exhibitions taking place in some of Tokyo's most popular galleries to help you figure out where to start – we've also included free exhibitions in this list. For a full day of art excursions, you should also check out Tokyo's best street art and outdoor sculptures, or fill your Instagram feed at the newly reopened teamLab Borderless. Note that some museums and galleries require making reservations in advance to prevent overcrowding at the venues.  RECOMMENDED: Escape the city with the best art day trips from Tokyo

13 best retro Japanese coffee shops in Tokyo

13 best retro Japanese coffee shops in Tokyo

Long before popular third-wave coffee shops and cafés started taking over the city, Tokyoites got their coffee fix at traditional kissaten tea rooms and coffee shops. Even though many of them also serve light refreshments and simple meals, these Tokyo institutions were more than just a caffeine stop in the good old days. They were the social centres for the community. While not as common today, these cherished Showa-era (1926-1989) establishments are now experiencing a resurgence as people are drawn to the nostalgic charm of kissaten and the refuge they provide from the fast-paced world. When you step into one of these enduring Tokyo institutions, it's like stepping back in time, surrounded by the soothing ritual of meticulously hand-poured coffee and the slower, more thoughtful pace of days gone by. RECOMMENDED: 7 best cafés for latte art in Tokyo

The 55 best Japanese movies of all time

The 55 best Japanese movies of all time

There’s more to Japanese movies than Kurosawa, Ozu and Miyazaki. That’s not to downplay their contributions to the country’s cinematic history – or cinema in general. All three are potential GOATs. It’s just that there’s much, much more where that exalted triumvirate came from.  Like the trailblazing silent works of Kenji Mizoguchi. Or the off-kilter pop-art crime thrillers of Seijun Suzuki. Or the bizarrely horrifying visions of Takashi Miike. On this list of the greatest Japanese movies of all time, you’ll find them all, alongside, of course, Kurosawa’s feudal epics, Miyazaki’s deeply soulful animations and Ozu’s quietly powerful domestic dramas – oh, and Godzilla too. Reading through, you can trace Japan’s unique filmmaking history, moving from the silent era to its post-war golden age to the 1960s New Wave to the anime explosion of the ’80s, all the way up to the current renaissance spearheaded by Hirokazu Kore-eda, Ryusuke Hamaguchi and Mamoru Hosoda. It’s a lot to take in, so consider this list your travel guide to one of the world’s most creative movie cultures.  RECOMMENDED: 🇰🇷 The greatest Korean films of all time🇫🇷 The 100 best French movies ever made🇯🇵 The best anime movies of all time, ranked🌏 The 50 best foreign films of all-time

12 amazing things to do in Tokyo this summer

12 amazing things to do in Tokyo this summer

Everyone loves to harp on about Tokyo being far too hot and humid in the summer, but this time of year also comes with a host of season-specific perks that make the city all the more lively. Colourful yukata and the sound of cicadas mark the beginning of summer in Japan. From traditional street matsuri (festivals) to raging music fests spotlighting international artists, it’s hard not to get swept up in all the vibrant festivities Tokyo has to offer during the longest days of the year. Besides, beating the heat is easy enough with the right pair of shorts and an ice cream in hand. Or better yet, just embrace the balmy weather by slapping on some factor 50 and hopping on a train to the nearest beach. And while some events like music festivals will require booking tickets far in advance, no time of year offers more opportunities for spontaneity and adventure. Here’s a list of unmissable activities to revel in the best of the summer.  RECOMMENDED: If you only do three things in Tokyo... as recommended by our editors

Walk-ins only: 8 best no-reservation restaurants, cafés and bars in Tokyo

Walk-ins only: 8 best no-reservation restaurants, cafés and bars in Tokyo

Let’s face it: restaurant reservation culture has gotten out of hand. Sure, it’s always good to consider booking things for a special occasion, but no one should have to subscribe to a newsletter, set five automated reminders, and crouch over their laptop waiting for the minute an online reservation system opens just to have a nice meal. For some, the song and dance of getting a reservation five months in advance at a restaurant like Noma is the whole part of the dining experience. On the downside, however, such competitive booking systems also leave little wiggle room for spontaneity and flexibility. If you prefer to play by ear and see where your appetite takes you, don’t let the six-months-early crew intimidate you. Even in Tokyo’s peak seasons, there are plenty of good restaurants and bars that don’t take reservations. Instead, they cater exclusively to walk-in brunch enthusiasts, café hoppers, dinner dates and cocktail aficionados. Although, with their popularity, you most likely have to wait a while, depending on the time you show up. But the point is that everyone has a fighting chance at getting a seat, regardless of how (dis)organised you are. RECOMMENDED: The best cheap eats in Tokyo

8 Japanese ice cream flavours you need to try

8 Japanese ice cream flavours you need to try

Tokyo has its fair share of quality gelato shops, with flavours ranging from classic chocolate to salted caramel, but let’s face it – you can find those flavours in any other city. Trade your run-of-the-mill ice cream and soft-serve for something more exotic and Japan-specific, like sakura, roasted green tea or ume plum. You might even discover a new favourite flavour. RECOMMENDED: The best street food and snacks in Harajuku

17 best things to do in Kagurazaka: temples, restaurants, bars, shops and more

17 best things to do in Kagurazaka: temples, restaurants, bars, shops and more

There are over 250 restaurants hidden in the cobblestone alleyways of Kagurazaka, but you wouldn’t know it unless you spent a day exploring all the narrow paths and winding slopes of the neighbourhood. The area is still reminiscent of old Tokyo, with traditional shops, shrines and the occasional sighting of a real life geisha making her way to her next dinner appointment at one of the long-standing local restaurants.  Kagurazaka hasn’t lost its colour in recent decades. Instead, it has become even more vibrant, thanks in part to the French International School situated near the district, bringing with it many French businesses. Among the traditional sweet shops and sake bars, you’ll now see European bistros and wine bars perfectly merging cultures and culinary experiences.  On weekends, the main road is closed to car traffic during the day, leaving plenty of space for you to meander from shop to shop, uncovering all the hidden gems in one of Tokyo’s most captivating neighbourhoods. RECOMMENDED: Best things to do in Daikanayama

6 tried and tested tips on how best to avoid crowds in Tokyo

6 tried and tested tips on how best to avoid crowds in Tokyo

Tokyo ranks as the largest city in the world with an estimated population of 37.4 million people, so dodging densely packed trains and crowded streets can prove to be a challenge in this vast metropolis. What’s more, a steady influx of visitors prompted by the recent depreciation of the yen means the city feels as busy as it’s ever been. Earlier this May, in fact, Tokyo's Haneda Airport reported a record number of 19.1 million travellers for fiscal 2023.  Though many of us Tokyoites are now accustomed to the comically packed morning commute and the throngs milling about Shibuya Station on weekends, we know that not everyone finds humour in the masses. Some travellers might be tempted to skip Tokyo as a destination altogether for fear of being stuck in two-hour-long ramen queues, but we think the city has too much to offer to pass up as a destination. Fortunately, you can have your cake and eat it too, by taking a few precautions along the way. If you’re on a mission to cover as much ground as possible while avoiding as many people as possible, here are a few pointers to help you avoid the public when in public. RECOMMENDED: The best no-reservation restaurants, cafés and bars in Tokyo 

17 best things to do in Ginza besides shopping: cocktail bars, onsen, coffee and more

17 best things to do in Ginza besides shopping: cocktail bars, onsen, coffee and more

An upscale district in Tokyo, Ginza is often associated with towering skyscrapers that host a myriad of luxury fashion boutiques and multi-story department stores. The abundance of flagship stores also makes Ginza an ideal destination for shoppers seeking high-end brands and Japan-exclusive products. While retail therapy is an undeniable allure of this neighbourhood, it offers much more than just shopping. Ginza boasts an impressive selection of acclaimed restaurants, time-honoured cafés, and a rich art scene that could take more than a day to appreciate fully. During weekends and public holidays (12noon-5pm), the main road is closed off to traffic and turns into a pedestrian haven, with tables and chairs replacing cars. It's the perfect time for leisurely strolls and alfresco dining – in the middle of an otherwise busy thoroughfare.  So the next time you find yourself in Ginza, be sure to venture beyond the glittering shops to discover these unique spots that offer a different taste of this sophisticated district. RECOMMENDED: Best restaurants in Ginza: sushi, tonkatsu, ramen and more

17 best things to do in Daikanyama

17 best things to do in Daikanyama

Here’s a little secret – the neighbourhood of Daikanyama is a lot smaller than you’re led to believe. The block is shaped like a rectangle and it takes about ten minutes to walk from Daikanyama's train station to the other end of its perimeter. However, many of the shops and restaurants in the nearby corners of Sarugakucho (and even Meguro) like to identify as part of the Daikanyama community. And who could blame them for wanting to be a part of one of Tokyo’s coolest neighbourhoods? While Daikanyama has earned itself a reputation as a highbrow neighbourhood of brunch spots, third-wave coffee stands and designer boutiques, the area isn't as pretentious as you might think. The green-filled neighbourhood is full of local businesses where the owners know their patrons by name (like our favourite takoyaki stand Tempu) and relaxed hangouts like Spring Valley Brewery – built on disused Tokyu line train tracks – make the area more welcoming than snooty.  A mash-up of all of Tokyo’s best bits, you've got niche art galleries you might find in Roppongi mixed with the underground music venues of Shimokitazawa, lively Shibuya-style bars and enough trendy boutiques to rival Ginza – all in one place. There’s a lot going on here, with something for everyone, whether you’re into bargain hunting or fine dining, but nothing feels out of place.  To get you started exploring the neighbourhood, here’s our list of the best things to do in Daikanyama.

7 best super sento in Tokyo with multiple baths, saunas, cafés and more

7 best super sento in Tokyo with multiple baths, saunas, cafés and more

There are lots of ways to enjoy a hot-spring bath, and they don’t all have to involve a two-hour journey out of the city (although we love those kinds of getaways, too). No, we’re talking about super sento, those sumptuous city-centre baths where you can get all the benefits of a rejuvenating onsen getaway without the added cost of staying in a ryokan. Super sentos are one step above the budget-friendly, communal bathhouses that you see in nearly every Tokyo neighbourhood. They often span multiple storeys, featuring not only multiple baths and saunas but also a host of facilities that make it easy for you to spend an entire day there, like cafés, manga libraries, massage rooms and even cocktail bars. Join us on this soothing journey through Tokyo's top super sento, where convenient relaxation is just a dip away.RECOMMENDED: Best onsen and sento in Tokyo for people with tattoos

19 best things to do in Sangenjaya: restaurants, cafés, bars and attractions

19 best things to do in Sangenjaya: restaurants, cafés, bars and attractions

Sangenjaya – or ‘Sancha’ to locals – is a sprawling jumble of stores and winding backstreets that has a neighbourly vibe, but with a grungy edge. Translating to 'three teahouses', Sangenjaya was a place for eating and drinking back in the Edo period (1603-1867), and these days it remains true to the cause. The area is packed with restaurants, cafés and bars: hotspots include the Sankaku Chitai alleyway, along Chazawa Street towards Shimokitazawa, and the meandering web of streets south of Sangenjaya station. The neighbourhood’s most eye-catching landmark, however, is the bizarre giant gorilla statue that looms over a FamilyMart on Chazawa-dori. The King Kong lookalike has been a resident of the area for so long that even the locals aren’t entirely sure of its origins, but it’s now an indispensable part of Sangenjaya. On a pleasant day, don’t miss a trip to the top of the Carrot Tower for free views of Tokyo or the chance to explore the green oasis of Setagaya Park. RECOMMENDED: Our ultimate guide of 101 things to do in Tokyo

Listings and reviews (14)

Héritage by Kei Kobayashi

Héritage by Kei Kobayashi

Nagano native Kei Kobayashi was just 15 when he decided he wanted a career in culinary arts. Eager to begin training, Kobayashi left high school early to pick up a full-time job in a local restaurant before moving to France at the age of 21, where he eventually worked for famed chef and restauranteur Alain Ducasse. With three decades of experience under his belt, Koabayshi is now known as the first Asian chef to earn three Michelin stars in France, but the veteran chef has bigger ambitions on the horizon. Following the success of his first restaurant in Paris, Kobayashi is re-establishing his roots in Japan, where he has opened a string of new restaurants serving modern French cuisine highlighting Japanese ingredients. This includes the fine dining restaurant on the 45th floor of The Ritz-Carlton, Tokyo, previously known as Azure 45. Renamed Héritage by Kei Kobayashi, the dining space retains its French culinary roots while incorporating Kobayashi's signature flair. Accompanying this French by way of Japanese menu is the sky-high view outside the wall-to-wall windows, which look out to a breathtaking view of Tokyo's modern skyline, with a glimpse of the bay in the distance. A typical meal begins with two types of amuse-bouche. On our visit, Kobayashi served a sliver of comté cheese sandwiched between two paper-thin seaweed crackers, alongside plump hamaguri clams baked in garlic butter breadcrumbs. Every dish is meticulously designed so that the food doesn’t merely look appe

Minoya

Minoya

Japanese cuisine relies heavily on traditional dashi (soup stock of kelp and dried bonito fish) and soy sauce to flavour its dishes, so vegetarians and gluten-free diners still have a hard time finding 'safe' Japanese food in the city. That’s where Minoya comes in. This small, homey restaurant sits in the ultra-local neighbourhood of Shin-Okachimachi, on a street lined with vending machines and Showa-era street lamps, with nondescript bicycles parked in front of every other two-storey building. Minoya is a one-man show headed by chef Junji Kawahara, a former white-collar worker who gained respect for vegetable farmers when he quit his corporate job and tried starting his own vegetable patch in Koshigaya. After obtaining a professional license at a culinary school and working at a Japanese restaurant in Yanaka, Chef Kawahara decided to open his own restaurant with an emphasis on farm-to-table vegetable dishes. The restaurant can cater to nine diners at a time with five counter seats and a table for four. Because of its limited capacity, Minoya is by-appointment only. The restaurant isn't strictly vegetarian, but Minoya excels in meeting various dietary preferences and restrictions. Gluten allergies are thoughtfully addressed by substituting wheat flour with rice flour and replacing shoyu (regular soy sauce) with tamari (soy sauce made with little to no wheat). Chef Kawahara’s approach to vegetarian and vegan dishes is creative and balanced, avoiding simple substitutions like t

Ukiyo

Ukiyo

In the summer of 2023, Yoyogi-Uehara unveiled an exciting new complex. Although modest in size with five stories, Cabo boasts a diverse array of facilities, including office spaces, charming mini bookstores and a stunning cocktail bar-café. A highlight of Cabo is the fresh and innovative fine-dining restaurant Ukiyo, led by the dynamic duo of sommelier Naoto Takeuchi and chef Toshi Akama. Their collaboration blossomed from their shared experience at the Nordic-inspired Meguro restaurant Kabi. Chef Akama, who hails from Canada, stands out in Tokyo's culinary landscape as a rare example of a young chef under 30 leading a restaurant. Despite his youth, his culinary journey is impressive, with stints at prestigious establishments including the two-Michelin-starred restaurant Ikoyi in London. At Ukiyo, Akama crafts modern, seasonal tasting menus that fuse Japanese ingredients with exotic spices from across the globe. His plating style is deceptively simple, yet each element on the plate is a product of meticulous preparation, often requiring several days to perfect. A unique feature of the restaurant is its cooking technique, primarily using a low and slow method over a charcoal grill. This approach not only intensifies the flavours of each ingredient through the smokiness of the red-hot embers but also offers greater control over the cooking process, which sometimes yields an ingenious solution. For instance, during our visit, Chef Akama shared a story of turning disaster into de

NéMo

NéMo

Many of the city’s top seafood restaurants pride themselves on having fresh seafood delivered from Toyosu Market every morning, but Kenichi Nemoto takes things one step further at his French seafood restaurant NéMo in Minami-Aoyama. The head chef and owner was an avid fisherman in his youth, thanks to the influence of his grandfather. Though he later went from working as a fisherman to cooking at three-Michelin-star restaurants, Nemoto still works closely with the fishermen he has known as a teenager, who send their catch of the day fresh from the boat to NéMo’s kitchen. This unique relationship means there's no fixed monthly menu at NéMo. Instead, multi-course lunches and dinners are crafted based on the season's bounty. But while daily surprises can range from a crate of sweetfish to a 6kg yellowtail, knowing the best way to prepare each fish comes naturally to Nemoto, whose previous posts include big names like Narisawa and Quintessence.  This season’s menu begins with charcoal-grilled sweetfish that can be eaten from head to tail, served with a cooling sauce of spring onions, nori seafood and wild greens finished with a touch of olive oil. Later, he serves yellowtail pan-seared medium rare, so that the skin is a crisp golden brown and the centre blushes a delicate pink. This is plated with sauteed chanterelle mushrooms, diced tomatoes and basil puree, which manager and head sommelier Yuito Terashima pairs with a bright Sauvignon Blanc to complement the Mediterranean flavo

Tinc Gana

Tinc Gana

When in Tokyo, it may seem counterintuitive to seek out restaurants that don’t serve Japanese food. Sometimes, however, an international restaurant is so sensational that it’s worth diverging from the ever-popular offerings of sushi, ramen and yakitori. Tinc Gana is one such venue.  Opened in autumn 2022, this Ichigaya restaurant is Chef Jérôme Quilbeuf’s most upscale establishment yet, with tasting menus that offer modern takes on Spanish cuisine. Quilbeuf describes Tinc Gana as a ‘Gastrobar de Barcelona’, but unlike his open kitchen Gracia in Hiroo, where diners can order from the a la carte menu on a casual weeknight, Tinc Gana has a formal feel to it that makes you want to pull out your best outfit and celebrate a special occasion.  Lunch courses are priced at ¥6,500, ¥9,000 and ¥15,000, while dinner courses are ¥12,000 and ¥19,000. Like the restaurant's interior, which is accented with an olive green kitchen countertop and tall vases of fresh flowers, the dishes here are elegant, bright and vibrant. A meal usually starts with Quilbeuf’s version of salmorejo, which is a fuller, creamier cousin of gazpacho with roots in Andalusia. Here, a refreshing emulsion of fresh tomatoes, onion and green paprika is served with delicate wheels of cucumber and flash-boiled kuruma ebi prawns.  Depending on the season, a dish that might appear later in the course is a spin on arroz negro, a paella-like dish where rice is cooked in squid ink that turns it black. Quilbeuf takes this classic

Rama

Rama

One defining aspect of Tokyo’s dining culture is its plethora of intimate, open kitchens that seat less than a dozen guests at a time. That Rama caters to just nine diners at a time for a Japanese-Italian tasting menu is not unusual in the city’s burgeoning modern omakase scene, but this sleek and warmly lit venue along an unassuming street in Shirokane is still a stand-out.  What makes Rama a new favourite among our ever-growing list of Tokyo’s finest restaurants is the way head chef Katsuhiro Aoki manages to deliver food that is playful, elegant, unpretentious and genuinely delicious all at once. An autumn menu might begin with a twist on Caprese salad with sautéed persimmons in lieu of tomatoes, whereas chilled gnocchi with mackerel and tart raspberry vinegar would be served to convey the transition of spring to summer.  The signature dish is a bowl of handmade taglioni crowned with a generous grating of fragrant truffle. Served in a buttery emulsion of homemade chicken stock and 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano, the only thing that changes about this pasta across the seasons is the variety of truffle that is sourced directly from Italy, but every bite is as revelatory as the last.  Somewhere between the courses of handmade pasta, Chef Aoki always includes two classic Japanese dishes with his own spin. The first is a single piece of nigiri sushi, expertly shaped and served to diners one by one like a traditional omakase sushi experience. Rather than seasoning the sushi with so

Suzume

Suzume

4 out of 5 stars

By now, Makoto Shinkai fans have come to expect a certain formula from the master animator's films: a fated girl-meets-boy scenario and a natural disaster that threatens to wipe out a significant portion of Japan, with a spellbinding backdrop of rural towns and cityscapes. True to form, Shinkai covers all these bases in his latest anime, which follows 17-year-old Suzume (voiced by Nanoka Hara) on her quest to save Japan from calamity.  The story kicks off with Suzume discovering a mystical doorway in some bathhouse ruins near her home. However, before she can uncover the secrets of the portal, she accidentally uproots a kaname-ishi (spirit rock) that turns into a kitten in Suzume’s hands before bolting away. It’s at this moment that a handsome stranger shows up just in time for the magic door to suddenly burst open as a terrifying dark force storms into Suzume’s realm. After his unsuccessful attempt to close the portal of doom, the stranger introduces himself to Suzume as Sota (Hokuto Matsumura) and explains that he's on a mission to locate more doors like the one they just encountered and lock them up. The unfortunate elephant in the room is that this meet-cute involves a man who is ostensibly too old to be a high-school student. Not to worry, though, because the dashing nomad is soon turned into a child-sized chair by the aforementioned spirit-rock-kitten. Knowing that Sota would struggle to survive his mission as a chair, Suzume resolves to accompany him on his journey and

A Thousand and One

A Thousand and One

4 out of 5 stars

In her feature debut, director AV Rockwell delivers a poignant and stirring portrait of parenthood in a rapidly gentrifying New York City. Set in the mid-’90s, the story casts rising star Teyana Taylor (Coming 2 America) as Inez, who has just been released from Rikers Island. Though she doesn’t have a job or a place of her own, Inez decides to kidnap her six-year-old son Terry from the foster care system, with a firm resolve to give him the best life she can afford.  After securing an apartment and forged identity documents for Terry to ensure he remains undetected by the authorities, Inez is joined by her on-off boyfriend Lucky (William Catlett) and the three of them settle into their new life as a non-traditional family.  The story spans a decade or so, with the passage of time marked by three different actors portraying Terry in different stages of life. Aaron Kingsley Adetola embodies a young and vulnerable six-year-old Terry, while Aven Courtney delivers a compelling performance as a preteen. Eventually, Terry grows into a quiet and academically gifted 17-year-old (Josiah Cross), but by this point, Inez’s carefully crafted facade threatens to unravel when he begins contemplating part-time jobs and university. Throughout it all, however, she never loses focus on her goal of guiding her family through hardships, even as Lucky dips in and out of the picture. Teyana Taylor’s raw, captivating performance showcases her impressive range It’s not a short film and more time could

I'm Fine (Thanks for Asking)

I'm Fine (Thanks for Asking)

4 out of 5 stars

The combination of camping, rollerskating and Californian sunshine might seem like the promise of a happy, carefree day, but this is far from the case in I’m Fine (Thanks for Asking). Co-directed by Angelique Molina and Kelley Kali, who also plays the film’s protagonist, this soulful pandemic-set drama follows Danny, a recently widowed mum, as she fights to secure housing for herself and her eight-year-old daughter Wes (Wesley Moss).  Though the mother and daughter currently live in a tent, Danny has successfully shielded Wes from the reality of their situation by pretending that they’re only camping for the sake of adventure. Without a car to navigate the LA suburbs, she drops Wes off at a friend’s and scoots between her various gigs with just a pink bum bag to hold her cash and a pair of rollerskates (talk about being a go-getter).  But Danny’s efforts to secure the final $200 she needs to finally afford a flat for her and Wes fall apart when a series of mishaps means she isn’t paid for her scheduled odd jobs. She desperately needs help, but sidesteps her friends’ concerns about her life. This is a refreshingly realistic story about resilience, familial love and adversity  I’m Fine (Thanks for Asking) doesn’t always make it easy to sympathise with Danny’s plight. She sometimes appears to forget the urgency of her situation, like when she abandons her mission to smoke a joint with a pal in a playground. And yet, it’s the way the film presents this dichotomy between languishi

Everything Went Fine

Everything Went Fine

3 out of 5 stars

Anyone who caught the film adaptation of Jojo Moyes’s novel ‘Me Before You’ will get a twinge of déjà vu when watching François Ozon’s Everything Went Fine. Like that soapy romantic drama, it deals with the controversial issue of assisted suicide. Rather than a whirlwind romance between a handsome millionaire and a vivacious twentysomething, however, this French drama centres on the rocky relationship between a miserable elderly man and his weary adult daughter.  Everything Went Fine is based on a memoir by Emmanuèle Bernheim, a writer whose collaborations with Ozon have already delivered 2003’s sultry thriller Swimming Pool. Sophie Marceau plays Emmanuèle, who rushes to the hospital at the beginning of the movie upon hearing that her father André (André Dussollier) has suffered a stroke. Shortly after being admitted to hospital, André asks Emmanuèle to arrange for an assisted suicide – a plea André doesn’t back away from even as his physical condition improves. Though André was never a particularly good father, she and her sister find it painful to grapple with their father’s desire to end his life. Eventually, Emmanuèle reluctantly looks into euthanasia at her father’s insistence, thus beginning a months-long application process to move him from his hospital bed in France to an expensive assisted suicide clinic in Switzerland.  You’re left with a nagging feeling that everything could have gone… better Despite impeccable performances from its talented cast, we never get to

Good Luck To You, Leo Grande

Good Luck To You, Leo Grande

4 out of 5 stars

Don’t clutch your pearls if you ever catch word of your buttoned-up former RE teacher having a tryst with a sex worker. At least, that’s one of the takeaways to gain from Sophie Hyde’s (Animals) sex comedy. It stars Emma Thompson as widow and retired educator Nancy Stokes, who decides to hire a rent boy in his twenties to try and reclaim a life she’s never lived. When Leo Grande (Daryl McCormack) comes knocking on her hotel room door, however, Nancy’s self-doubt gets the best of her and she questions whether she is prepared for such an encounter. But after a few false starts and countless reassurances from the effortlessly charming Leo, she gradually allows herself to become more vulnerable. Despite its taboo-tackling premise, Good Luck to You, Leo Grande isn’t the raunchy romp that one might expect it to be. Though the clothes come off fairly early on, it focuses on the intimacy that unfolds as the two characters lay bare the innermost parts of themselves, rather than just their bodies. Don’t clutch your pearls if you ever catch word of your old RE teacher having a tryst with a sex worker Like Thompson’s character, the film takes its time to gather momentum, but eventually finds its footing as a progressive conversation-starter about modern attitudes towards sex work, as well as a cheering nudge to drop the useless inhibitions holding you back from leading a fulfilling life. Excellent writing by Katy Brand leaves plenty of room for both light-hearted humour and deeply pers

Taro Okamoto Memorial Museum

Taro Okamoto Memorial Museum

The posh neighbourhood of Minami Aoyama is often associated with upscale boutiques and bakeries, but the area is also chock full of small museums and galleries, which often get overlooked in favour of larger attractions in the vicinity like Meiji Jingu. Among these hidden gems is the Taro Okamoto Memorial Museum, dedicated to one of Japan’s most prominent masters of contemporary art. Born in 1911, Taro Okamoto was an artist and art theorist famous for his avant-garde paintings and sculptures that have become permanent fixtures in public spaces across Japan. These include ‘Tower of the Sun’, which served as the symbol of Expo '70 held in Osaka, as well the 60m-long mural found in Shibuya Mark City titled ‘Myth of Tomorrow’. The latter carries a poignant message as it depicts the instant of an atomic bomb explosion (you can read more about the piece here).  Opened in 1998, the museum served as Okamoto’s primary studio and residence for the last 44 years of his life. Okamoto, who moved from Japan to Paris at the age of 18, spent the beginning of his career exploring abstraction. He later went on to become the youngest member of the Abstraction-Création group in 1933. Four years later, he left the group and turned his attention to the Surrealism movement and rubbed shoulders with pioneers by the likes of Max Ernst and Man Ray.  Highlights at the museum include the back gallery, where Okamoto conceived his ‘Tower of the Sun’ sculpture and created all of his paintings from 1954. Th

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You can now dine in a vintage Orient Express first-class carriage in Hakone

You can now dine in a vintage Orient Express first-class carriage in Hakone

For over a century, the Orient Express carried passengers on continental journeys with routes that stretched from London to Istanbul. Though the trips could take several days depending on the destination, the train service was celebrated as a symbol of luxury and became the stage for timeless stories from Agatha Christie novels to James Bond movies.  Originally launched in 1883, the train service was in operation through 2009, but is resuming its iconic Paris-Istanbul route this summer after a long hiatus. The journey spans five days and can be booked online here. However, if an opulent summer in Europe isn't feasible for you, there's an alternative way to indulge like the 20th-century upper class on the Orient Express – and you won't have to travel far for it. Photo: Onkochishin The Lalique Museum in Hakone is an art museum dedicated to the Venetian glass works of René Lalique (1860-1945). The Frenchman was a renowned jeweller and glass designer, who was commissioned to make artistic glass panels and windows for the carriages of the Côte d'Azur Pullman Express, which was in service from 1929  through 1939. After its original route was discontinued, the Pullman Express cars were transferred to the Orient Express until 2001. The Hakone museum has managed to acquire one of the original first-class cars and now displays it as an installation piece, where visitors can admire over 150 pieces of Lalique’s intricate craftsmanship. Though the museum typically operates from 9am to 5

Shibuya is looking to ban public drinking on streets at night

Shibuya is looking to ban public drinking on streets at night

Walk through the streets of central Shibuya on any given night and you’re bound to see clusters of people sipping beer in front of konbini or chugging cheap chuhai before entering nightclubs where they’ll need to pay double for drinks. For better or worse, Shibuya becomes all the livelier – or rowdier, depending on your point of view – when locals get off work and tourists finish their sightseeing itinerary for the day, to revel in Japan’s relaxed attitude towards public drinking.  The area gets particularly unruly during Halloween and New Year’s Eve, which has prompted the local council to place temporary public drinking bans in the areas surrounding Shibuya Station in recent years. Now, however, Shibuya ward is preparing to expand these occasional restrictions into a year-round ban of public drinking after dark.  According to Asahi Shimbun, the proposed ban is expected to be approved on June 17 and come into effect on October 1 2024. This means street drinking will be prohibited in a number of busy or popular areas in central Shibuya from 6pm through 5am every day. Asahi Shimbun reports that target areas include Miyashita Park, the ward office neighbourhood and the Maruyamacho district, which has a high concentration of nightclubs. Though violators will not be penalised, the ban will give local businesses and ward patrol officers more power to reduce public intoxication. Officials hope that this will help mitigate the number of cases of littering, vandalism and altercations

Shinjuku joins Shibuya in banning public drinking on Halloween

Shinjuku joins Shibuya in banning public drinking on Halloween

The bustling hub of central Shibuya is notorious for attracting hordes of revellers during holidays and festivals like Halloween and New Year’s Eve, with crowd levels reaching alarming levels in recent years. This has prompted the ward to crack down on the masses for these occasions, taking measures like banning public drinking in certain areas and cancelling Shibuya Scramble’s annual NYE countdown. Recently, officials have even announced that the ward will move to expand its occasional public drinking ban to last year-round. However, Shibuya is no longer the only area in Tokyo looking to tighten its alcohol regulations.  Shinjuku is also set to implement a public drinking ban this year, albeit just for one night. According to Asahi Shimbun, the draft ordinance will prohibit the consumption of alcohol from October 31 to November 1 on the streets in front of JR Shinjuku Station and busy nightlife districts like Kabukicho. The newspaper reports that Shinjuku mayor Kenichi Yoshizumi will submit a proposal for the new draft to the ward assembly session on June 12.  In addition to urging people not to consume alcohol on public streets, officials will request convenience stores and other retailers to refrain from selling alcoholic beverages for the hours that the ban is in place.  Officials are hopeful this ban will help improve public safety, noting that in 2023, Shinjuku saw 3,000 more partygoers than usual attending its Halloween festivities after Shibuya bolstered its restricti

Another barricade has been installed near Mt Fuji to prevent unruly tourist behaviour

Another barricade has been installed near Mt Fuji to prevent unruly tourist behaviour

The town of Kawaguchiko in Yamanashi prefecture is reinforcing the new barrier at its overrun Lawson convenience store after visitors were caught making holes in it. Meanwhile, Fuji City in the neighbouring Shizuoka prefecture has planted its own fence to deter disruptive tourists. The city, as its name might suggest, is chock-full of vantage points where Japan’s tallest peak can be seen in the far distance, but there's one spot in particular that has captured the attention of snap-happy visitors, provoking ire among local residents.  Known in English as the ‘Mt Fuji Great Dream Bridge’, Fujisan Yumeno Ohashi is an overpass that stretches across Fuji City's Urui River. Most importantly, it faces the snow-capped volcano. As the overpass is connected to the national highway system, it’s buzzing with motorists coming in and out of the city.  There is, however, an adjacent walkway that runs alongside the road so that pedestrians can cross the river. Keen photographers have been taking advantage of this pedestrian path since the bridge’s opening in 2016. Lately, though, unruly behaviour reached new lows with people parking on private roads, illegally crossing the motorway to stand on the central reservation, and causing a nuisance in nearby residences.  Though the city has designated photo spots and tourist facilities by the bridge, disruptive visitors who ignore traffic laws in favour of an Insta-worthy photo shoot have prompted the town to construct a makeshift barricade stretch

Japanese city registers same-sex couple as common-law spouses

Japanese city registers same-sex couple as common-law spouses

Omura in Nagasaki is now the first known city in Japan to register a same-sex couple as common-law spouses on a residence certificate. On May 28 2024, 38-year-old Keita Matsuura and his partner, 39-year-old Yutaro Fujiyama, held a press conference after becoming the first known same-sex couple in Japan to be recognised as a de facto marriage on a government-issued certificate of residence.  As of May 2024, 26 of the 47 prefectures in Japan have a Partnership Oath System, which encourages the recognition of same-sex partnerships in Japan and aims to promote awareness for sexual minorities. Couples who are over the age of 20 can apply for special partnership certificates under this system, but the certificates are not legally binding and do not change official family registries or documents like the certificate of residence.   Matsuura and Fujiyama applied for a partnership certificate under the Partnership Oath System in 2020 and had a Shinto wedding ceremony at a shrine in Hyogo prefecture in June 2023. However, they had no legal documents indicating they were married until recently. After moving to Omura city in March of this year, they applied to be registered as a de facto married couple on their certificate of residence, rather than two households under one roof.  The municipality originally offered to list the pair as relatives, but after further deliberation, issued a certificate listing Matsuura as the 'head of household' and Fujiyama as his 'unregistered husband'. Acc

東京ディズニーシー:ファンタジースプリングスでしかできない4のこと

東京ディズニーシー:ファンタジースプリングスでしかできない4のこと

少なくとも東京では、ディズニーの世界をもう十分堪能した、と思う日は来そうにもない。「東京ディズニーランド」と「東京ディズニーシー」から成る「東京ディズニーリゾート」は幅広い世代の人々を魅了しているが、2024年夏、ディズニーシーに3つのエリアを含む新たなテーマポートがオープンするのだ。 Photo: © Disney 2024年6月6日(木)に正式オープンを迎える新テーマポートの名前は「ファンタジースプリングス」で、「フローズンキングダム」「ピーターパンのネバーランド」「ラプンツェルの森」の3エリアに分かれている。ここでは、正式オープンに先立って公開された詳報を伝えたい。 1. ネバーランドを体験する。 Photo: © Disney ピーターパンのネバーランド 東京ディズニーランドには、すでにアトラクション「ピーターパン空の旅」がある。だが、今回新たにオープンする「ピーターパンのネバーランド」は、エリア全体が丸ごとピーターパンの世界となっている。エリア内には、2つのアトラクションと、レストラン、ポップコーンワゴンが設けられる。 Photo: © Disney 1つ目のアトラクションは「ピーターパンのネバーランドアドベンチャー」。馴染み深い1953年版のアニメーション映画のストーリーに沿った、約6分間のアトラクションだ。 Photo: © Disney ゲストは、ネバーランドで暮らすロストキッズの一員になった気分を味わいながら、目の前で繰り広げられるピーターパンと海賊たちの戦いや、空を飛ぶキャラクターたちの姿を、臨場感あふれる3D映像で見ることができる。 Photo: © Disney 2つ目のアトラクション「フェアリー・ティンカーベルのビジーバギー」は、子ども連れで楽しめる。体験時間は約2分で、もとになっているのは、ティンカーベルと仲間たちが主役の「ディズニーフェアリーズ」シリーズの世界だ。ゲストはバギーに乗り、「ピクシー・ホロウ」(妖精の谷)でティンカーベルが小包を届けるのを助けながら、四季に分かれたエリアを進んでいく。 Photo: © Disney アトラクションを満喫した後は、エリア内のレストラン「ルックアウト・クックアウト」へ。ロストキッズが作った店という設定で、チキンテンダー、海藻フリッター、シュリンプチップスなどが入ったスナックボックスが食べられる。 2. 「アナ雪」の城に迷い込む。 Photo: © Disney 東京ディズニーリゾートのトレードマークといえばシンデレラ城の一択、という時代が終わりを迎えるかもしれない。というのも、新しくできる「フローズンキングダム」エリア内に、映画「アナと雪の女王」でエルサとアナの姉妹が住むアレンデール城が出現したのだ。 Photo: © Disney フローズンキングダム エリア内の目玉となるのは、「アナとエルサのフローズンジャーニー」と名付けられた水上アトラクション。ゲストはボートに乗り込み、約6分30秒の旅に出る。プロジェクションマッピングによる視覚効果が素晴らしく、まるで魔法にかかったかのように感じるに違いない。 Photo: © Disney アレンデール城のすぐそばにあるのが、映画に登場するショップを模した、カウンターサービスのレストラン「オーケンのオーケーフード」だ。 Photo: © Disney ここで食べられる「オーケンのフッフーブレッド」は、カルダモンをきかせたスパイシーなミートフィリングにリンゴンベリー(コケモモ)ジャムを合わせた、

The mountaintop Unkai Terrace in Hokkaido opens out to a sea of clouds

The mountaintop Unkai Terrace in Hokkaido opens out to a sea of clouds

You’ll be on cloud nine at the Unkai Terrace in Hokkaido – literally. An extension of Hoshino Resorts Tomamu, the Unkai Terrace is centred around the concept of enjoying unkai (sea of clouds) from a high altitude. The outdoor attraction is usually closed from autumn through late spring, but reopened for the green season in early May and is now set to welcome visitors through October 15 2024.  Photo: Hoshino ResortsCloud Walk The facility features seven unique vantage points, which can be accessed by taking a gondola from the bottom of Mt Tomamu and riding to an elevation of 1,088 metres. The main observation deck got an extended deck in 2021 and now protrudes even farther from the mountain. From here, you’ll get an ethereal view of the seasonal phenomenon where soft white clouds appear to form an ocean with the peaks of surrounding mountains poking out like islands.  Photo: Hoshino ResortsCloud Bed The other lookout points aren’t your typical viewing platforms, either. There’s the Cloud Walk, which is shaped like a cloud and structured like a suspension bridge to provide a 210-degree view, as well as the Cloud Bed, made of elastic cushions for people to lie down or lean back on as they look up at the sky above. Photo: Hoshino ResortsCloud Pool The mesh Cloud Pool looks a bit like a hammock, and a relaxing one at that, as you can look over the side of it or lounge on it as the cloud formations shift around you. Then, there's the Cloud Bar, which opened in 2019. With the

3 ways to visit the new Fantasy Springs attraction in Tokyo DisneySea

3 ways to visit the new Fantasy Springs attraction in Tokyo DisneySea

Tokyo DisneySea’s new Fantasy Springs area is opening in just two weeks and the attractions look nothing short of spectacular. Recreating the worlds of ‘Tangled’, ‘Frozen’ and ‘Peter Pan’ in real life, the upcoming port will appease its youngest generation of fans with modern favourites and delight its adult fanbase at the same time.  So, we’ve established that there’s something for everyone in Fantasy Springs – all that’s left to do is work out how to get in. Be prepared, though: accessing Fantasy Springs is a little more complicated than simply purchasing DisneySea’s 1-Day Passport for general admission and rocking up to the park gates at the crack of dawn. Here are a few methods you can mull over and their respective pros and cons. Photo: © Disney Standby Pass  Visitors with a 1-Day Passport can collect this pass free of charge on the day of their visit. Booked using the Tokyo Disney Resort App, the Standby Pass allows you to join the queue for a specific experience in the park – including rides, shops, shows and restaurants – at a designated time slot during peak times. If you can get a Standby Pass for any experience in Fantasy Springs, you’ll be able to enter the area any time within your designated time slot.  Pro:  Free with the 1-Day Passport  Cons:  Passes may be difficult to acquire due to popular demand You can’t book a Standby Pass for more than one shop, restaurant or attraction at a time Pass holders may still experience long wait times for certain attrac

カンヌ国際映画祭でスタジオジブリに「名誉パルムドール」

カンヌ国際映画祭でスタジオジブリに「名誉パルムドール」

「第77回カンヌ国際映画祭」が2週目に入った2024年5月20日、日本にとってうれしい発表があった。同映画祭はスタジオジブリの作品と功績をたたえ、「名誉パルムドール賞」を授与した。 パルムドールはカンヌ映画祭の最高賞であり、伝統的にその年の最優秀新作に贈られる。しかし、2002年以来、映画祭は業界に多大な貢献をした俳優や映画製作者にも名誉賞を授与している。 Gorō Miyazaki - Honorary Palme d'or for Studio Ghibli at #Cannes2024 ✨ "Ghibli was created 40 years ago by Hayao Miyazaki, Isao Takahata and Tokuma Shoten. They are the studio's greatest contributors, but through this award I would like to associate all the work of the teams… pic.twitter.com/G66ZL6gJSw — Festival de Cannes (@Festival_Cannes) May 20, 2024 2023年、宮崎駿監督の10年ぶりとなる長編映画が公開され、2022年には愛知県に「ジブリパーク」がオープンするなど、近年スタジオジブリは多忙を極めている。これらの功績は、世界中のジブリファンによって称賛されているが、2024年のアカデミー賞で「君たちはどう生きるか」が長編アニメ映画賞を受賞したことで、ファン層はさらに拡大しているようだ。 この名誉あるパルムドールは、ジブリが達成した幅広い業績と、監督とともに働くスタッフの仕事に対して、適切かつ必要な評価である。 Gorō Miyazaki a un petit message pour tous les fans du Studio Ghibli 💛 Quel est votre Ghibli préféré ? #Cannes2024-----Gorō Miyazaki has a little message for all Studio Ghibli fans 💛 What's your favorite Ghibli? #Cannes2024 pic.twitter.com/JUKmoAC9dh — Festival de Cannes (@Festival_Cannes) May 20, 2024 授賞式では、宮崎駿の息子で映画監督の宮崎吾朗がジブリを代表してトロフィーを受け取ると、会場はスタンディングオベーションで温かい拍手が送られた。 パルムドール授与に際し、東京の「三鷹の森ジブリ美術館」と愛知県の「ジブリパーク」のみで上映されていた宮崎駿が手がけた短編4作品「めいとこねこバス」「やどさがし」「パン種とタマゴ姫」「毛虫のボロ」が上映されたほか、「君たちはどう生きるか」の7年にわたる制作過程を追った荒川格による2時間のドキュメンタリーも上映された。同作は、2023年にNHKで放送された「プロフェッショナル 仕事の流儀」を拡大したものである。 カンヌ国際映画祭は今年、ほかに2つの名誉パルムドール賞を授与している。一つは映画祭初日にメリル・ストリープ(Meryl Streep)、もう一つは映画祭閉幕日の25日(日)にジョージ・ルーカスに贈られる。 関連記事 『2024年カンヌ国際映画祭:見逃せない10本の映画』 『6月、天

Cannes Film Festival awards Studio Ghibli with honorary Palme d'Or

Cannes Film Festival awards Studio Ghibli with honorary Palme d'Or

Japan had an exciting moment when the 77th Cannes Film Festival entered its second week yesterday. To honour the work and achievements of Studio Ghibli, the festival celebrated the animation powerhouse with an honorary Palme d’Or prize on May 20.  The Palme d’Or is Cannes’s top accolade, which is traditionally given to the best new feature of the year. However, since 2002, the festival has also presented a handful of honorary prizes to actors and filmmakers who have made significant contributions to the industry. Gorō Miyazaki - Honorary Palme d'or for Studio Ghibli at #Cannes2024 ✨ "Ghibli was created 40 years ago by Hayao Miyazaki, Isao Takahata and Tokuma Shoten. They are the studio's greatest contributors, but through this award I would like to associate all the work of the teams… pic.twitter.com/G66ZL6gJSw — Festival de Cannes (@Festival_Cannes) May 20, 2024 Studio Ghibli has been especially busy in recent times, what with last year’s release of Hayao Miyazaki’s first feature film in a decade and the opening of Ghibli Park in Aichi. These achievements are heralded every day by the studio’s global fanbase, which seems to grow even bigger after ‘The Boy and the Heron’s win for Best Animated Feature at this year’s Academy Awards. This honorary Palme d’Or, therefore, feels like a suitable and necessary recognition of the broader accomplishments that the studio has achieved, and the work of its staff members working alongside its helmer.  Gorō Miyazaki a un pet

Muji opens an Airbnb on the art island of Teshima in Japan

Muji opens an Airbnb on the art island of Teshima in Japan

Some homeware stores are so lovely you want to live in them. Muji is one of those places for us, where every product feels practical, functional and soothingly simple. Muji is well aware of the effect it has on its fanbase and it didn’t take long for the brand to unveil its mammoth flagship store in Ginza in 2019, which houses a multi-floor retail space, bakery, cafe and design hotel.  Beyond its flagship, however, the brand has been developing a series of smaller, intimate retreats called Muji Base. These sites, set in repurposed old, traditional houses, offer Airbnb-style accommodation where visitors can live and breathe the brand's minimalist ethos.  Photo: Muji Most recently, Muji unveiled a new Base on the small art island of Teshima in Kagawa prefecture. This 90-year-old folk house was renovated in 2010 to serve briefly as an installation space for the 2010 Setouchi Triennale, as well as a dormitory for restaurant staff. Now transformed into a modern seaside retreat, it features subtle Japanese interior accents like ceramic teacups and linen wall hangings, along with upcycled wood tables that infuse the space with an earthy, peaceful atmosphere. Although the accommodation fees are slightly higher than similar options on the island, the house offers a generous 83sqm of space that comfortably accommodates up to four people, making it a cost-effective choice for groups. Rates begin at ¥49,000 per night (minimum stay of two nights required), excluding meals. There’s also

The decadent Godiva chocolate frappe is back at FamilyMart

The decadent Godiva chocolate frappe is back at FamilyMart

As the weather warms up, some of our favourite summer treats are returning to convenience store shelves. These include FamilyMart's frozen frappe collaboration with Godiva, which first debuted in 2021 as part of FamilyMart's 40th anniversary celebration. For those unfamiliar with FamilyMart frappes, the ice-blended drinks are a popular item from the convenience store’s Famima Café range. Rather than ordering the beverage like a coffee from the counter, you’ll find the frappes in the freezer section. After purchasing one, just take it to the coffee machine to fill with hot milk. The milk thaws the frozen drink into a slushie-like consistency, making it the perfect remedy for a hot day.  This year, Godiva chocolatier and pâtissier Yannick Chevolleau has introduced a new white chocolate and strawberry frappe, which joins the original chocolate version. The latter is crafted from three types of Belgian chocolate and includes crushed chocolate chips for added texture. The new white chocolate edition, however, features a mellow sweetness complemented by a tart strawberry sauce. Both frappes cost ¥460 and are available while stocks last. So if anybody needs us this week, we’ll be at FamilyMart. This article was originally published on August 23 2022 and updated on May 21 2024. More from Time Out Cannes Film Festival awards Studio Ghibli with honorary Palme d'Or In photos: Tokyo DisneySea's new Fantasy Springs area is all ready to open in June Tokyo is ranked the sixth most walkabl