Livia Hengel is a travel writer, photographer and culture enthusiast with a penchant for la dolce vita and a severe case of wanderlust. She is a regular contributor to Forbes and the founder of The Italy Edit, a digital travel and lifestyle magazine.
Articles (16)
The 15 best places to go shopping in Rome
Between the endless things to do and multiple bowls of pasta youâll devour on your trip to Rome, you might as well go shopping. Luckily for you, Rome takes shopping very seriously indeed. At first glance, you might just expect pricey designer boutiques and jewellers, but youâll be able to source a ton of vintage and bargain finds too. And if youâre only interested in a spot of window shopping? This is the place. Romeâs best shopping streets are a beauty. Hereâs where to go shopping in the Eternal City. RECOMMENDED:đïž The best attractions in Romeđ The best restaurants in Romeđïž The best Airbnbs in Romeđš The best hotels in Rome This guide was recently updated by Natalie Aldern, a writer based in Rome. At Time Out, all of our travel guides are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines.Â
The 12 best pizzerias in Rome
You know what they say. When in Rome, you must do as the Romans do. Like, never order a cappuccino after noon, and donât have dinner till nine. In a city as brilliant as this, youâve got to truly immerse yourself in the culture and eat like the locals. And we know itâs going to be hard, but thatâs going to involve eating lots and lots of thin-crust, delicious pizza. Tough gig, right? Well donât worry, weâre here to help. Rome is full of pizza served in a variety of ways. From classic, crispy Roman scrocchiarella and pizza al taglio (served by the slice) to the oval-shaped Pinsa Romana and wood-fired Neapolitan delights, thereâs a pizza for all pockets and palates. Letâs get into it then, shall we? Here are the best pizzas in Rome right now. RECOMMENDED:đŽ The best restaurants in Romeđ The best pasta in RomeđŠ The best gelato in Romeđ The best things to do in Romeđïž Exactly where to stay in Rome This guide was recently updated by Rome-based writer Livia Hengel. At Time Out, all of our travel guides are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines.Â
The 23 best restaurants in Rome
Eating well is probably pretty high on your Rome itinerary list. Italians are seriously famous for their recipes, whether itâs traditional Roman pasta (cacio e pepe, carbonara, amatriciana, and alla gricia) or crispy pizza covered in bubbly cheese. But like many famous cities, Rome has its fair share of tourist traps, so itâs important to know where to go. Luckily for you, our local writers have tried and tested all the food there is to try in the Italian capital. So donât waste any time getting overcharged for mediocre pasta: here are the best restaurants in Rome. RECOMMENDED: đŠ The best gelato in Romeđ The best things to do in RomeđĄ The best Airbnbs in Romeđ The best hotels in Rome This guide was recently updated by Rome-based writer Livia Hengel. At Time Out, all of our travel guides are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines.Â
The 10 best pastas in Rome (and where to eat them)
We all know Italy is a land renowned for its carbohydrates. Pizza, pasta and panini are ubiquitous in cities from the north to the south. In fact, did you know there are over 100 different types of pasta shapes throughout the country? Thatâs right. One hundred. So sure, it would take a lifetime to track them all down, but if youâre on a quick trip to the Eternal City and looking to try a few delicious pasta dishes, look no further: weâve got the 10 best, right here. From creamy carbonara and fragrant amatriciana to peppery cacio e pepe, each recipe reflects this cityâs rich culinary history and skillful cooking. Read on to discover the best pastas in Rome, and exactly where to find them. RECOMMENDED:đ The best restaurants in Romeđ The best things to do in Romeđ How to eat like a local in Romeđïž Where to stay in Rome Livia Hengel is an Italian-American writer based in Rome. At Time Out, all of our travel guides are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines.Â
The 10 best clubs in Rome
Our first tip for clubbing in Rome? Donât expect to be home at midnight. Thatâs closer to dinner time for the Romans, so your bedtime will be a whole lot later. Our second? Well, thereâs a lot of clubs in this city, but only some of them are worth your time. So to stop you wasting a night out on the town, weâve curated a list of the best clubs in Rome right now, and weâve made sure to include everything from live music joints to huge, industrial nightclubs. Ready to discover la dolce vita? Here are our top clubs in Rome. RECOMMENDED:đ» The best bars in Rome đ The best restaurants in Romeđ The best things to do in Romeđš The best hotels in Rome This guide was last updated by Livia Hengel, a writer based in Rome. At Time Out, all of our travel guides are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines.Â
The 23 best things to do in Rome
Thereâs no place like Rome. This is a city where winding streets lead to beautiful temples, pasta gets brought out by the bucketload, and the people-watching opportunities never end. Itâs one of the most famous cities in the world for a reason, but you canât fully understand its magic until youâve been there in person. Rome is also much, much bigger than you can imagine, so youâre going to want to have a plan in place. Here youâll find archeological treasures, iconic art collections and enough culture to make you want to come back again and again. But donât worry â thereâs plenty of time to digest your lunchtime pasta, and to sip on aperitifs in the warm sunshine. Whether itâs your first or your 20th time visiting, here are the very best things to do in Rome, according to a local. RECOMMENDED:đïž Unmissable attractions in Romeđ The best restaurants in Romeđïž Where to go shopping in Romeđïž The best Airbnbs in Romeđš The best hotels in Rome This guide was recently updated by Rome-based writer Livia Hengel. At Time Out, all of our travel guides are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines. This guide includes affiliate links, which have no influence on our editorial content. For more information, see our affiliate guidelines.Â
The 50 best cities in the world in 2024
What makes a city great? Some would say itâs all about buzzing neighbourhoods, affordable food and drink and a mighty selection of things to do, from art galleries and museums to live music and theatre. Others might highlight things like the happiness of its locals, access to green space and strong community vibes. We factor in all that and more in our annual survey, which asks city-dwellers around the world to tell us what itâs like to live, work and play in their hometowns right now. Thanks to the opinions and insights of locals on the ground and our global network of city experts, weâre able to create a global ranking of the worldâs best cities â and the 2024 results are in. As in previous years, the basis of the ranking remains our global survey of the people who know their city best: the locals. Working with research company Potentia Insight, we surveyed thousands of city-dwellers about the quality and affordability of food, culture and nightlife in their city. We also asked locals how their city makes them feel: are they happy there? Is it a beautiful place? Is it easy to make social connections? Their thousands of responses gave us a unique insight into the reality of living in the worldâs greatest cities right now. Now that international travel is forecast to bounce back to the highest levels since 2019, many travellers will be planning a city break this year â so in 2024, we added a little extra weight to a cityâs global appeal. Each survey respondent was asked which
The 13 best bars in Rome
The Romans know how to party. Thatâs no secret. Theyâve been at it since the beginning. But thereâs one thing you should know before you hit the town: these guys start their parties like they start their dinners: late. So have a late, carb-filled lunch, possibly a nap, and then start bar-hopping at one of the brilliant bars on this list. Here, youâll find the best late-night haunts in town alongside sultry rooftop bars with Colosseum views. But they all have one thing in common: theyâre all open late, and they all serve really great drinks. Here are the best bars in Rome.  RECOMMENDED:đȘ© The best clubs in Romeđ The best restaurants in Romeđ The best things to do in Romeđš The best hotels in Rome This guide was recently updated by Natalie Aldern, a writer based in Rome. At Time Out, all of our travel guides are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines.
The 10 most beautiful places in Italy
Widely regarded as one of the most beautiful countries on earth, Italy is full of beautiful places to visit. With its rich cultural heritage, diverse landscapes and long-standing traditions, thereâs a lot to uncover on a trip to Il Bel Paese. The enduring popularity of Italy means many areas of the country suffer from over-tourism. Weâve done our best to cover the most beautiful places in Italy while highlighting some of the unique destinations you can visit within them to avoid (some of) the crowds. Next time you visit Italy, donât miss these unique attractions showcasing the best of its nature, culture and history. RECOMMENDED:đïž The best Italian islandsđïž The best places to visit in Italyđźđč Italy's most beautiful villages and townsđ The best restaurants in Italy Livia Hengel is a travel writer based in Rome. At Time Out, all of our travel guides are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines. This guide includes affiliate links, which have no influence on our editorial content. For more information, see our affiliate guidelines.Â
The 5 best day trips from Rome
Sure, Rome is one of the best cities on the planet. Sure, the food is incredible, the endless cacio e pepe will have you taking 3pm naps and the Aperol spritz just tastes better out there. We donât know why. But if you feel like extending your trip (and trust us, you will), youâll find another big perk to Rome, and thatâs how near it is to a number of other great Italian cities and towns. The best part? You can reach each of these spots in around an hour on public transport. So yes, youâll make it back for another Roman cacio e pepe that evening. Here are the best day trips from Rome. RECOMMENDED: đœïž The best restaurants in Romeđ The best things to do in Romeđïž Unmissable attractions in Romeđïž Where to go shopping in Romeđźđč The best places to visit in Italy Livia Hengel is a writer based in Rome. At Time Out, all of our travel guides are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines.Â
20 travel tips every first-time Rome visitor should follow
Donât get us wrong, Rome is a very friendly place. But itâs not always the easiest to navigate. And unless you want to find yourself waiting for a coffee for three hours or queueing for the Vatican for three hours, there are some things you should know before you go. And donât panic. Our local writer Livia Hengel has the inside scoop on every rule, custom and hack for the big city. If you want to absolutely smash a weekend in Rome, read this list (and read it before you go. Trust us). Here is every travel tip youâll need to do Rome as the Romans do. RECOMMENDED:đ The best things to do in Rome đ The best restaurants in Romeđïž Unmissable attractions in Romeđïž Where to go shopping in Romeđš The best hotels in Rome Livia Hengel is a writer based in Rome. At Time Out, all of our travel guides are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines.Â
12 of the best alternative Mediterranean beach breaks for 2023
Does anything conjure up an image of beach bliss quite like the Med? Surrounded by 22 countries and bordered by three continents, the Mediterranean Sea boasts miles and miles of coastline â not to mention hundreds of islands. And while there are certain seaside spots where youâll need to fight for space on the sand (weâre looking at you, Barceloneta), there are plenty of other secluded stretches of coastline across the Med. Our selection of alternative beach spots, chosen by Mediterranean-based travel writers, takes you beyond Europe to North Africa and the Middle East. From wild, flamingo-frequented beaches in Spain to a culture-packed port city in France, this is where to find the Mediterraneanâs best alternative (and affordable) beach breaks. Thereâs plenty of room to lay out your towel here. Grace Beard is Time Outâs deputy travel editor, based in London. At Time Out, all of our travel guides are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines and check out our latest travel guides written by local experts. RECOMMENDED:đș Europeâs most underrated destinationsđ The best European city breaksđ« The travel destinations that want tourists to stay away
Listings and reviews (15)
Alcazar Live
What is it? Alcazar Live in Trastevere is one of Romeâs liveliest hubs for cultural activities and nightlife, including live music, theatre, cinema and drinks. Is it worth it? Without a doubt, this is the best club in Rome right now. This dynamic space was formerly a movie theater and still features red velvet theater seats, along with a wide stage area to accommodate a wide range of shows each evening. Upstairs, the original area that housed the movie projector contains a trendy but low-key restaurant, so you can also stop by for food before the show. A full line-up is available on the Live Alcazar website. What is the dress code for Alcazar Live? The dress code here is smart casual, but contrary to popular belief, summery clothes like shorts and skirts are fine. Just donât arrive straight from the beach unless youâve got a change of clothes with you, as you wonât be allowed in with a bikini on, flip-flops, or shirtless in trunks. This review was fact checked and updated in 2024. đ Discover more of the best things to do in Rome.Â
Colosseum (Colosseo)
What is it? One of the New Seven Wonders of the World, the Colosseum is a huge amphitheatre in Rome built in AD 72. Officially known as the Amphitheatrum Flavium (Flavian amphitheatre), the building didnât become known as the the Colosseum until later â not because it was big, but because of a gold-plated colossal statue, now lost, that stood alongside. Built by Emperor Vespasian, the Colosseum is situated on the site of the newly drained lake in the grounds of Neroâs Domus Aurea. Why is it famous? When it was built, the arena was about 500 metres (a third of a mile) in circumference and could seat 50,000-80,000 people who gathered to watch gladiatorial contests, animal hunts, and other public spectacles. The Colosseum has four levels, including a âhypogeumâ beneath the arena floor, which features underground tunnels and chambers which were used to house gladiators, animals and equipment before the fights. Part of its fame is owed to the loss of its south side in 1349, when Rome was struck by an earthquake. Lots of the stone that fell was then used to build other monuments and churches in the city. Is it worth going inside the Colosseum? Yes! The Colosseum is one of the most recognisable monuments in the world, and the outside is beautiful, but the inside is really something to behold. Youâll definitely want to take a guided tour to understand its historical significance better. Is entry free? If youâre pressed for cash (and time), you can admire its grandeur from the ou
The Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel
What is it? One of the world's largest museums, which is home to the celebrated Sistine Chapel, traces its origins to the private summer residence of Pope Julius II in 1503. Through the years, it has developed into an extensive compilation that mirrors the diverse preferences and pursuits of several influential figures. Why is it famous? Constructed between 1473 to 1484, the Sistine Chapel is best known for its monumental frescoes painted by Michelangelo. Serving as the venue for papal conclave for hundreds of years, the chapel was restored in the 1980s and '90s to unveil vivid blue shades across its 930-square-meter ceiling and the wall of the Last Judgment. The museum not only features seminal works by Michelangelo and Raphael but also includes Etruscan relics, creations by Matisse, a lunar rock gifted by Nixon, and a 120-meter corridor filled with remarkably precise maps from the 16th century. Is it worth going into the Vatican Museum? Many travellers come to Rome specifically to visit the Sistine Chapel, but if youâre into art and history, youâll certainly want to visit the entire Vatican Museum complex. A quick walkthrough will take around 2-3 hours but there are countless works of art, so you can easily stay longer. Eat a snack before your visit and come prepared to be overwhelmed by beauty and crowds. Put it this way: we do not recommend visiting the Vatican and the Colosseum on the same day. How much do tickets cost? Tickets cost upwards of âŹ17, and there are concess
Pantheon
What is the Pantheon and why is it famous? The Pantheon, built by Hadrian in AD 119-128, stands as Romeâs best-preserved ancient building. Originally a temple, it replaced an earlier structure built by Marcus Agrippa, confusing historians for centuries. Designed following the rules of Roman architect Vitruvius, its dimensions impress, with the dome's diameter equaling the building's height, accommodating a perfect sphere. The name is derived from the Greek word ÏÎŹÎœÎžÎ”ÎżÎœ, which means âtemple of all godsâ. Who is buried in the Pantheon? The building is still officially a church, and contains the tombs of eminent Italians, including the artist Raphael and united Italyâs first king, Vittorio Emanuele II. At its center lies the oculus, a 9-meter (30-foot) circular aperture serving as the sole source of light, symbolically connecting the temple to the heavens. Is it worth visiting? Certainly, although youâll now have to queue to go inside. The pantheon is impressive to see inside-and-out, and a visit is quick. You wonât need more than 15 minutes inside. Is entrance to the Pantheon free? Since July 2023, the Pantheon is no longer free to enter. Tickets are âŹ5 for adults, âŹ2 for 18-25 year olds, and free for visitors under age 18. Tickets, guided tours and fast-track entry can be found on GetYourGuide, and tickets can also be purchased on the Pantheon website bu typing âPantheonâ and filtering by region âLazioâ. Youâll be asked to create an account to purchase tickets and you can on
Da Enzo al 29
Whatâs the vibe? Donât expect a long, leisurely experience at this diminutive family-run trattoria. Space is limited, the noise level is high and the service is fast and furious, but for typical cucina romana, it is a reliable and atmospheric option. Prices are a little above average but the quality of ingredients is assured and there is a nice selection of lesser-known Lazio wines. The restaurant doesnât take reservations so be sure to arrive 30-60 minutes before opening at lunch and dinner, otherwise be prepared to join a very long queue (but theyâll serve you a drink while you wait). What are the prices like? Prices have gone up since the pandemic and are high for Italian standards (but still low compared to Venice, Florence, and other big tourist cities around the world). Pastas come in at around âŹ12-15. What should I order? Everything here is excellent so you canât go wrong with any of the Roman classics like carbonara and amatriciana pastas, meatballs with tomato sauce and oxtail stew. Donât miss the burrata antipasto served with cherry tomatoes, and be sure to order fried artichokes as a side. The tiramisĂč is also excellent. Whatâs worth visiting nearby? Located in the quaint alleyways of Trastevere, thereâs a lot to see around the trattoria. Wander into the pretty gated courtyard of the 9th century Basilica di Santa Cecilia â which is much quieter than the nearby pre-medieval Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere across the tram line. You can cross over a small foo
Pizzeria da Remo
Whatâs the vibe? The best place in town for an authentic pizza romana, Da Remo has prime location in the main piazza of Testaccio. You can sit at wonky tables balanced on the pavement, or in the cavernous interior, overseen by Lazio players in various team photos. The bruschette al pomodoro are the finest in Rome. A park with swings right across the road makes this a great place to eat with kids. You can try booking but they probably wonât accept: get here before 7pm if you donât want to queue. Itâs only open for dinner. What are the prices like? This place is no-frills in every sense of the word and pizzas are all under 10 euros, making for a thrifty and tasty dinner in good company. What should I order? The thin pizzas are cooked to perfection in a wood-burning oven and itâs the classics that really shine here: a pizza margherita, a pizza with sausage and mushrooms, or a pizza capricciosa with ham, mushroom, artichoke, olives, and hard-boiled egg. Order a round of fritti to start: fried rice balls stuffed with tomato sauce and cheese, zucchini blossoms with anchovies and mozzarella, and small mozzarella balls. Whatâs worth visiting nearby? Rome's only pyramid â the Pyramid of Caius Cestus â is a short walk from the pizzeria at a busy intersection near the Piramide train and metro station. Vinificio, an expansive natural wine bar, is nearby for a pre-or-post dinner drink. And Rome's pretty Orange Garden, with a view of the city's rooftops, is also close. đ Check out more
Seu Pizza Illuminati
Whatâs the vibe? This isnât your typical old-school pizzeria. With a big neon sign reading âIn Pizza We Trustâ, this spot on the edge of Trastevere is fresh and local. At Seu Pizza Illuminati, master pizzaiolo Pier Daniele Seu with his wife and partner Valeria Zuppardo have curated a vast menu of gourmet, Neapolitan-style pizzas with very creative flavour combos. Expect meaty, fishy, vegetarian, vegan; the works. What are the prices like? Medium-high but reasonable for the quality. A classic pizza margherita comes in at âŹ10, more creative pizzas are âŹ15-18. What should I order? The menu changes according to the season. Interesting combinations include roasted pumpkin, provola cheese, crispy guanciale and amaretto crumble, or broccoli rabe with green olive cream, burnt lemon gel, toasted almonds and provolone. Enjoy a top-notch wine and champagne list to complement the âluxury culinary experienceâ. Whatâs worth visiting nearby? The bustling streets of Trastevere are right nearby or cross over into Testaccio for a more local flair. Villa Sciarra park is a favorite hideaway and dog park for locals and the 1930s cinema Nuovo Sacher streams arthouse movies. đ Check out more of the best things to do in Rome.Â
Sant'Isidoro Pizza e Bolle
Whatâs the vibe? An upscale pizzeria that prides itself on quality ingredients and an extensive wine list, this is a great place for a relaxed date night (with wine). SantâIsidoro has cracked the code to turning pizza into a luxurious experience by pairing palate-cleansing sparkling wines with perfectly baked pies. Youâll find French Champagnes, Italian Franciacorta, Trento DOC and other curated wines on the menu. You can also order cocktails, still wines and a few Italian craft beers. What are the prices like? Prices are on the medium-high end but fair considering the emphasis on champagnes and high-end labels. Wines by the glass are âŹ7-10 and bottles start at âŹ30. What should I order? Start with a frittatina di pasta, a Neapolitan classic made of deep-fried bucatini noodles with bĂ©chamel, ham and peas. Then pick your pie â from classics to the more eccentric, featuring shrimp, artichoke cream and sweet and sour onions. Whatâs worth visiting nearby? Located on the northern end of Prati, SantâIsidoro is in an elegant residential neighborhood with lawyer studios and historic cafes. The pizzeria is also a short bus or taxi ride from the Vatican or cross the river to explore Zaha Hadid's MAXXI museum dedicated to contemporary art and architecture. đ Check out more of the best things to do in Rome
Alle Carrette
Whatâs the vibe? This restaurant resembles a Czech beer den more than a Roman pizzeria, but its cuisine is decidedly Italian. The space is large and bustling with brick ceilings and a big woodfire pizza oven. The service is fast and efficient, so even if thereâs a wait, youâll be seated relatively quickly. Thereâs also a small outdoor space in the summer months. What are the prices like? One of the best value meals in Rome, Alle Carette is unfussy and informal. Expect to pay around âŹ10-20 per head. What should I order? The pizza here is classic Roman: thin and crispy with charred edges and only a handful of ingredients. Itâs the kind of place to order pizza with prosciutto or spicy salami, though the menu has dozens of options with or without tomato sauce. Order a few types of fried foods to start and a pitcher of house wine. The fried carciofini (baby artichokes) are unbeatable. Whatâs worth visiting nearby? The whole Monti neighborhood is extremely charming and filled with quaint cafes, independent boutiques and wine bars. Enjoy a drink on the steps of the fountain in La Piazzetta (Piazza della Madonna dei Monti). It's just a short walk to the Colosseum and ancient archeological sites like Emperor Nero's Domus Aurea, Trajan's Market and the Imperial Forum. Monte Oppio park is also nearby. đ Check out more of the best things to do in Rome
Trattoria Pennestri
Whatâs the vibe?  The vibe here is cosy, friendly and delicious. Itâs a local favorite in the Ostiense neighbourhood (but tourists have caught onto the hype, so itâs always busy). Be sure to book 1-2 weeks ahead to reserve a table. The focus here is on quality ingredients and honest food â with a hint of innovation and a lot of heart. The wine selection is excellent and the service is warm. All in all, youâll be in for an unforgettable meal. What are the prices like? Prices are in the medium range for Rome: pastas are âŹ13-15, seconds are âŹ18-22, wines start at âŹ6.5 by the glass. What should I order? The menu changes seasonally and is carefully curated with creative comfort food. Chewy pici with sauteed chicory and breadcrumbs is a classic, and you canât miss the chocolate mousse, sandwiched between two thin disks of Sardinian flatbread topped and with flaky sea salt and a drizzle of olive oil. You might also come across duck breast with lemon and pumpkin compote or cannelloni stuffed with mushrooms, sage and pecorino. Whatâs worth visiting nearby? Centrale Montemartini, a stirring museum that juxtaposes classical sculptures with industrial machinery, is close to the restaurant. You can also visit the serene Protestant Cemetery which has famous graves, including those of the English Poets John Keats and Percy Bysshe Shelley. Further south, the Garbatella neighborhood is a charming, residential area to walk around with unique 1920s architecture. đ Check out more of the best
Vatican Museums
Donât just skip the line at the Vatican Museum to avoid the crowds... enjoy them all to yourself! With a little planning you can arrange to visit to the Vatican Museum and see one of the worldâs most important art collections after dark, making for a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The Vatican Museums are famed for their extensive collection of ancient sculptures, Renaissance works and the breathtaking Sistine Chapel. Many tour companies offer after-hour tours of the museums or book directly through the Musei Vaticani website.
Il Sorpasso
Despite being located just a short walk from the Vatican Museums, Il Sorpasso is a refreshingly local bistro and one of the cityâs best-kept secrets. With a shabby-chic atmosphere and creative menu, it strikes a perfect balance between cozy and contemporary and makes the most of seasonal ingredients. Start off with some local wine and a platter of cold-cuts and cheeses before moving on to the daily specials that include flavorful salads, fresh pasta dishes and expertly prepared meats.