Gelam Gallery in Bugis
Photograph: Dewi Nurjuwita

The ultimate guide to Bugis

Bugis is a colourful district home to a myriad of food options, art galleries, and historical monuments that contrast against state-of-the-art skyscrapers

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Bugis has gone through an overhaul over the years – transforming from a port for pirates and quarters for prostitution to the classy (and artsy) precinct it is today which includes new developments like Andaz, the National Design Centre and the modern National Library branch. Not to mention a smorgasbord of food options from all over the world – whether it's Michelin-star hawker fare, Malay cuisine or trendy cafés. While the area is evolving into a mini CBD, it hasn’t gone all business-like just yet. The colourful neighbourhood is a place of contrasts, with the historical monuments of Kampong Glam contrasting against state-of-the-art buildings like Parkview Square and Duo Tower. Bugis was also named one of the coolest neighbourhoods in the world, according to a 2020 Time Out global survey. So check out all these venues that make the heritage enclave so great. 

RECOMMENDED: The ultimate guide to Kampong Glam and the ultimate guide to Tanjong Pagar

Do

  • Attractions
  • Animal rescue homes
  • Rochor

It's not everyday that you find adorable kittens at a cat shelter. The Kitten Sanctuary specialises in the rescue of pregnant cats as well as neonatal kittens, providing them with the appropriate care as well as a shot at finding a forever home. Entry to The Kitten Sanctuary costs just $20 per person, giving you an hour of play with the adult cats and kittens housed across three separate sections. Play with them as you like, pick up some useful information about cats and cat care, and maybe bring home a cat companion. 

  • Things to do
  • Classes and workshops
  • Rochor

Art jamming is a whole lot less intimidating when you can let physics do the work. At Motion Art Space, you're guaranteed to take home an abstract piece of art worthy of display at home – whether or not you've had any prior art experience. At this studio, you'll be making use of custom-made spinning tables and pendulum swings to make spin art – reminiscent of the work of Canadian artist Callen Schaub's stunning pendulum swing pieces. A basic package costs $69, giving you a one-hour painting experience inclusive of a standard canvas, four basic paint colours and free access to all the tools available at the studio. 

 

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  • Things to do
  • Rochor
Malay Heritage Centre
Malay Heritage Centre

Malay sultans once reigned Kampong Glam, but those days are long gone. What stands now is the historic Istana Kampong Gelam, one of the finest examples of traditional vernacular Malay architecture still found in Singapore. Built between 1836 and 1843, it combines traditional Malay motifs with the Palladian style – a style popular in England in the 18th and 19th. It has since been converted into a museum that traces the history of the Malay community – from the days of the earliest settlers and the seafaring might of the Bugis villagers to the golden years of the Malay entertainment industry. 

  • Cinemas
  • Independent
  • Kallang

Occupying the former site of the historic Golden Theatre is The Projector, a refurbished cinema that’s home to an eclectic selection of films (it also selectively screens mainstream ones), as well as Intermission Bar which hosts unique events and dishes out tasty bites. Settle yourself into a seat – or bean bag – and be spoilt for choice with an array of films that run the gamut. Besides indie titles and arthouse flicks, The Projector also shows local and cult classics such as Rocky Horror Show and 2001: A Space Odyssey

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  • Things to do
  • Literary events
  • Rochor
  • 5 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
National Library
National Library

You can spend all day navigating the National Library building. The 16-floor architectural marvel is home to two libraries (the Central Public Library in basement 1 and the Lee Kong Chian referene Library from levels 7 to 13), a Drama Centre managed by the National Arts Council, and a public art gallery. Showered with architectural awards before it had even opened, the new building (a replacement for the old National Library on Stamford Road) is designed as two towers, linked by walkways and walled almost entirely with glass. The spacious reference section and the study rooms on the upper floors offer great views across the city.

  • Art
  • Rochor
Aliwal Arts Centre
Aliwal Arts Centre

There’s always something going on at this versatile space that’s part art centre, part performance space and part co-working space. Home to the annual Aliwal Urban Art Festival and Aliwal Arts Night Crawl, the focus isn’t just trained on cool, street culture, they also hold workshops on topics as diverse as opera make-up, dance master classes and movement sessions.

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  • Art
  • Galleries
  • Rochor

Since its inception in January 2018 at Golden Mile Complex, this independent art space founded by Singapore artist Seelan Palay aims to provide a space where home-grown artists can practice with freedom and autonomy. The gallery has just moved into a fresh new location in the thriving Aliwal precinct. Ingrained within its four walls is a strong, unwavering sense of experimentation as the gallery pushes its artists to strive for greater heights in terms of techniques and concepts. 

Eat

  • Rochor

You don’t need to be from New York to have heard about The Halal Guys, a famous food truck empire known for serving up spice-scented meats with rice. And now, you don’t even need to travel far to get a taste of the dish. Closer to home, along Arab Street, four Singaporeans have decided to open a rice bowl café inspired by the iconic street cart. At Overrice, the menu bears resemblance to the greatest hits from The Halal Guys. Beef is slow-cooked to retain all its flavour, the chicken comes grilled simply, falafel balls are fried till golden and crispy. But the main draw here is the white sauce, a creamy, mysterious recipe that is used to drizzle over everything. 

  • Cafés
  • Rochor

Known for their innovative sweet and savoury croissants, Brotherbird also runs a coffeehouse on the quaint Bali Lane. Snuggle up in the cosy space, and enjoy its popular mochi donuts ($15), which are topped with soft serve ice cream and a drizzle of salted caramel sauce. They have hot items on the menu too, including rigatoni bolognese ($18), smashed avocado toast ($18) and chicken stew and croissant ($21). 

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  • Indonesian
  • Rochor

Having bakmi, or mie ayam at a street warung is the quintessential Jakarta experience – but we're not going to experience that anytime soon. Instead, head over to Kulon, the new kid on Bali Lane for a fix of the popular Indonesian street food. A good bowl of mie ayam would consist of springy al dente egg noodles, diced chicken cooked in soy sauce, chopped spring onions and served with simple and flavourful clear chicken broth – and a side of chilli. At Kulon, there are many variations of this beloved noodle dish. The noodle served here is of a thicker variation than the Indonesian street style – but absorbs the gravy perfectly. Have it the classic style with the Bakmi Bangka; or for if you crave stronger flavours, go for the Bakmi Gulai Sapi which incorporates the Javanese beef curry with the noodles. If spice is top priority, take your pick between the bakmi with red – or green – sambal. 

  • Chicken
  • Rochor

Think all American fried chicken is just KFC? Chix Hot Chicken is out to prove you wrong. First of all, its name doesn't lie – Nashville-style country chicken is spicy as heck. Nashville hot chicken is typically marinated in buttermilk, fried and doused with a heavy application of cayenne pepper (often in the form of some magical pepper-infused oil), along with other spices like garlic and paprika. It is sometimes served on the bone with white bread and pickles – possibly to take off the heat a little. Curious? Save the plane ticket to ‘Merica, you can get some in Arab Street.

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  • Indian
  • Rochor

If it’s nasi briyani and murtabak you crave, there are fewer better places to satisfy those cravings than at Zam Zam. Operating from a shop house space since 1908, it's one of the original dining establishments in Kampong Glam. The crispy mutton murtabak ($5) delivers indescribable pleasure and the fragrant biryani (from $6) – cooked Hyderabadi dum style together with the succulent meat – is exactly how we like it.

  • Malay
  • Rochor

You cannot visit Kampong Glam without having Nasi Padang. It's almost like an initiation. Opened by Haji Isrin at the corner of Kandahar Street in 1948, this stall is now run by third-generation owners and continues to churn out homely platters of authentic Malay dishes to a throng of people, including celebrities like former sports personality Fandi Ahmad and musical artist Dato Ramli Sarip.

'Generous' is Nasi Pariaman's middle name. Plates are packed with rice covered in gravy of your choice – there’s chicken curry and lodeh – and an assortment of side dishes such as sambal goreng, bagedil, ikan bilis, tofu and long beans. But the star here is the beef rendang ($3.50), a tender hunk of meat that’s drenched in spices, chilli and gravy. Pair this dish with a steaming cup of teh tarik ($1.30) to complete your meal. 

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  • Kallang

You could argue that this one Michelin star eatery isn’t quite in Bugis, but you’ll be splitting hairs. We frequent this eatery for what's been hailed as Singapore's best Bak Chor Mee. Hill Street Tai Haw Pork Noodle's bowl of juicy minced meat dressed in chilli and vinegar and served with springy noodles (from $6) is still one of the best eats to be had in the city. While the main man, Tang Chay Seng, isn’t always the one cooking, the standard remains consistent and the inimitable sauce perfectly balanced.

  • Middle Eastern
  • Rochor
Artichoke
Artichoke

Artichoke Café + Bar sits on the edge of the Bugis district, within the protective bounds of historical Sculpture Square. The eatery takes up one of the inner former chapel buildings, so despite being situated merely a few feet away from bustling Waterloo Street and Middle Road, the patio and slope-roofed L-shaped structure is almost immune to the throngs and the street traffic’s dust.

Food-wise, check out its popular dish known as Eggs Shakshouka ($28). Eggs are cracked onto tender, fall-apart chunks of fresh lamb and barely tart tomato stew made with lamb marrow stock. Served on the pan in which it was baked, the mixture can be scooped and soaked up by the accompanying boats of pide. A dollop of home-made labneh (strained yoghurt) quells the fresh, piping heat of this Tunisian dish.

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  • Rochor
Alley on 25
Alley on 25

Treat yourself to an elevated street food experience at Alley on 25 – an all-day dining venue by Andaz Singapore. It comprises seven shophouse-inspired venues: a bar, a lounge and five restaurants each specializing in different cooking methods such as open charcoal grilling and cooking in a huge Beech oven. Star dishes include the laksa with tiger prawn, fish cake and rice noodle ($16) from Auntie’s Wok and Steam, as well as the oh-so-sinful braised lamb shank ($35) from The Green Oven. End your gastronomic adventure with the Pulut Hitam Ice-Cream Pop ($10), a uniquely Singaporean dessert served with coconut ice cream. 

 

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  • Steakhouse
  • Rochor

Named after the temperature of the Pira oven and grill that sits in the heart of a show kitchen, 665°F is a classic steakhouse dishing out halal-certified prime cuts and sustainable seafood. Perched on the 38th floor of Andaz Singapore, 665°F offers stuning views of the city below while you cut into succulent pieces of dry-aged, grass-fed ribeyes ($49), Australian lamb chops ($55) or a whole dover sole in burnt butter ($99).

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  • City Hall
Tess Bar & Kitchen
Tess Bar & Kitchen

Placed on a centrally located restaurant stretch opposite Raffles Hotel, Tess Bar is packed most evenings. Take you pick from an appealing drinks list, which runs the gamut from old school classics like the super smooth Godfather ($21) – a mix of Monkey Shoulder Scotch and Disaronno amaretto, with an assertive but not overwhelming whiff of cigar smoke – to fruity sips such as the Shrub Blanc ($21), a pleasantly sweet-sour blend of tequila blanco, Kronenbourg 1664, vinegary berries shrub, fresh lemon and candied ginger. The food is also no slouch. Besides well executed bar bites like crispy pork belly ($10), check out their beautifully plated fine dining-style dishes, including the duet scallop aburi carpaccio and tartare ($16) and even some vegan options (from $9). 

Drink

  • Music
  • Music venues
  • Rochor

There’s so much to love about this homegrown live music café and bar that keeps evolving but never betrays its musical soul. A multi-genre space – from jazz to hip-hop, R&B, to live DJ gigs and musical theatre open mic – the only thing consistent about it is its chilled vibe, reasonable drink prices, and that the music is always on point.

  • Rochor
  • price 2 of 4

It’s hard not to be impressed when you first step into Atlas. The grand art deco-inspired bar looks exactly like a European hotel lobby of the era. Magnificent champagne-hued tapestries line the ceiling, intricate gold and bronze balconies surround the space, and, of course, a massive gin tower stands imposingly at one end.

Gin lovers will be buzzed to know that Atlas houses over 1,000 bottles of gin – and has the most diverse collection of spirit in the world. With so much to choose from, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed so let Master of Gin, Jonathan Teo, and his team help.

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  • City Hall

The OG of local rooftop bars might be – literally – overshadowed by younger upstarts on taller buildings, but it hasn't yet lost its place on our list of watering holes for a fun night out. The beer is cold, the vibe casual, and the food deserves special mention, thanks to culinary genius Bjorn Shen.

The chef-owner of Artichoke and Bird Bird brings his 'dude food' leanings to Loof. We're talking over-the-top and greasy-in-a-good-way dishes that you wish you could save in the fridge for when the munchies hit. The Pork Chopper ($19) is a cream cracker-battered pork chop slathered in salted veggie slaw between brioche buns, the chilli crab waffle fries ($15) comes with a moreish blue crab dip, and you won't stop munching on the furikake sweet potato fries ($13).

  • Clubs
  • Rochor

Snuggled between the indie clothing and trinket stores along Haji Lane is this cocktail retreat. Bar Stories, set up in 2009, is among the first in the wave of bars shaking up crafted drinks in the city, with ardent foodie, David Koh, now at the helm of its drinks-making operation. 

Make reservations for prime seats in front of the bartender, and take the staircase next to The Crostini Bar to find Bar Stories. The small bar counter cleverly tucks you into a recessed space to make conversation easy with the team, who take orders for bespoke cocktails ($20-$25) here. Koh keeps the programming organic and fluid by procuring interesting ingredients and inspirations like Kyoho grapes and kaya toast for the surprise drinks. 

Shop

  • Shopping
  • Fashion
  • Kallang

Nonmainstream is a cool shop you can find in the Kampong Gelam precinct. It's trendy to be thrifty these days and at this hip vintage store you can snap up bright Nike windbreakers, retro sporty sweatshirts, oversized polo shirts, graphic tees and more for affordable prices. The only catch is, the shop is only open on Fridays and weekends so keep tabs on its next opening day on the Instagram account. 

  • Shopping
  • Fashion
  • Rochor

Behind every batik fabric is a story. The meaning of ‘batik’ itself refers to the technique of making intricate patterns onto a piece of fabric. It is a delicate art and often a time-consuming one because so much thought and skill is put into making a sheet of batik fabric. The motifs on each piece of cloth also have meaning behind them – and this is what owner Oniatta Effendi showcases with every collection she releases. Whether it is a Merdeka jacket with parang (blade) prints which symbolises victory and power or a men’s shirt with the Garuda (a mythical bird) print which represents masculinity, it’s a joy to learn the stories being the garment you’re wearing.

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  • Shopping
  • Boutiques
  • Rochor
Supermama
Supermama

The name is familiar, the products heart warming (but not in a kitschy way) and their brand now global with the recent opening of a Tokyo store. Ground zero though remains their Beach Road space, created to inspire one to “collect, create and curate objects”. True to that premise, their beautiful porcelain blue and white plates emblazoned with uniquely Singaporean icons – the Singapore Flyer, the Merlion and the HDB or even Star Wars figurines – remain highly collectible (by locals and visitors) years on, evident by their often sold out status.

  • Shopping
  • Shopping centres
  • Raffles Place
Bugis Street
Bugis Street

Just a stone's throw away from Bugis station lies a bargain shopper's heaven. Bugis Street is the closest you'll get to a street market in Singapore – the first floor is non-airconditioned but we suggest heading straight up to the second air-conditioned floor to shop. The most popular thing to do there, however, is to get your nails done in one of the many nail salons in the 'beauty aisle' – trust us, you'll know when you get there. 

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  • Health and beauty
  • Rochor

There's no lack of nail salons in Singapore but if you happen to be in Haji Lane, check out The Nail Social, which, as its name suggests, is a socially conscious salon offering manicure, pedicure and foot massages. Founders Cheryl Ou and Germaine Monteiro set it up in 2014 with the aim of employing and training underprivileged local women. The pair was experienced nail technicians prior to setting up The Nail Social, and they make sure each customer feels at ease: there’s no lack of conversation, but you’re left to your own devices if you’d prefer things that way. Variety is the operative word here. There are close to 100 colours in both the regular and gel ranges – you’ll have to shell out another $3 for Halal polish, though. Guests also receive an iPad loaded with Netflix, games and books. And you can’t knock the free homemade lemonade and wine (the latter only on Fridays and Saturdays).

Other cool neighbourhoods to explore

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